The first type is a contact killer and will kill most any plant it touches. With some of these products, you will see results within a few hours. Other versions are systemic; that is, they enter the plant through the leaves, travel throughout the plant and down to the roots, then the plant dies. This process may take a few days up to a few weeks before you see the plant beginning to die.googleoff: allgoogleon: all
For areas where you want no vegetation to grow, you can consider using a soil sterilant. The products can remain effective from a few months to many years, depending upon the product selected and the soil conditions. I rarely recommend using these products as they can damage nearby plants if their roots reach the treated area. Also, if you change your mind about planting the area, you have a big problem.googleoff: allgoogleon: all
There are selective herbicides that only kill certain plants too. For instance, you can choose a broadleaf weed killer that will not harm turf grass but will rid your lawn of dandelions, or a grass killer that will not harm your broadleaf garden plants but will kill crabgrass.googleoff: allgoogleon: all
Finally, there are products that you can apply to your garden beds after they’ve been planted that prevent weed seeds from germinating, thus eliminating new weeds from popping up. These products will not kill existing weeds, so you will have to get rid of them the old-fashioned way, by pulling them up. Those made from corn gluten are considered safe for use in vegetable gardens. googleoff: allgoogleon: all
Your nursery professional can guide you to the correct product for your desired result. Regardless of the product selected, you must read and follow the product directions carefully for safe effective use. I’ve always recommended preventing a problem rather than correcting a problem after the fact. So if you can do nothing else, just eliminating weeds before they can go to seed will go a long way toward reducing your weed problem in the future. googleoff: allgoogleon: all
Q. I have a small fruit-producing plum tree. It has a number of suckers near the soil line. Should I remove them?googleoff: allgoogleon: all
A. The suckers that develop around the base of your plum should be removed because they may weaken the tree and won’t produce your desired fruit because plum trees are grafted. Production of suckers is stimulated by damage to the tree's shallow root system. To avoid this, control any weeds beneath the tree by careful, shallow cultivation or hand pulling. For those readers experiencing the same problem with other fruit trees such as apples, peaches, almonds etc., these same comments apply.